History of Climbing Mount Logan


Mount Logan is a mountain in the Yukon Territory of Canada and the highest peak in North America, with an elevation of 5,959 m (19,551 ft) above sea level. It is located on the northern edge of Kluane National Park and Reserve and is also part of Wrangell-St Elias National Park and Preserve. The mountain’s name was given by George Dawson after he climbed it in 1870 during his explorations for Sir John Franklin. Mount Logan is covered by glaciers that are up to 2 kilometres (1.2 mi) thick. There are glaciers at its base that extend up to Mount Cameron in Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park, with the largest glacier being over 1 kilometer (0.62 mi) thick. SummitClimb offers Mera Peak, Manaslu, Everest, K2, Ama Dablam expedition every year.

Mount Logan has two main climbing routes: the South Pillar Route and the West Pillar Route. The South Pillar Route is considered to be more difficult than the West Pillar Route due to its higher altitude, shorter length, and steep path up to the summit. The West Ridge is considered easier than the East Ridge because it involves climbing from the south side and then traversing across the north side before reaching the summit. The route has been climbed only twice by climbers from Canada: first by Peter Adams in 1978, then by Mike Hornak in 1992. Both climbers reached over 6200 m (20,000 ft) on Mount Logan before turning back due to poor weather conditions.

Mount Logan is part of the Burgess Shale, which is a fossilized limestone formation that was deposited approximately 420 million years ago. The Burgess Shale was formed from layers of sediment that were deposited on top of one another as water flowed through cracks in the Earth’s crust during a time when dinosaurs roamed the land.

The Mount Logan climbing difficulty rating is one of the highest in the world. It’s one of the toughest climbing routes to ever be completed, and it’s only been done by a handful of people.

The route is located in Canada, near the border with Alaska. It was originally completed in 1958 by an American climber named George Mallory and his partner Sandy Irvine. The pair reached the summit.

In 1996, another American climber named Tom Whittaker attempted to climb the mountain and finish their journey together with his partner Jim Davidson. He, unfortunately, died before he had a chance to reach the top, but his efforts resulted in a new record for most time spent on a mountain without reaching its summit: 29 days!


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